I wanted a place to discuss my handguns and firearms in general. Everyone seemingly has lots to say about guns, so I promise you this won't be a rant blog.
Last week I ordered a +4 aluminum basepad for a Canik TP9 Elite SC magazine that had a flat baseplate. I bought the +4 basepad from Taylor Freelance.
It took three days for delivery. I ended up installing it wrong and had a very difficult time removing it (if you buy this part, remember to remove the plastic at the bottom of the mag spring, otherwise you’ll have a very difficult time removing the +4 basepad).
The magazine was a 10-round mag that I converted to 12-round. With the +4 basepad, the gun now holds 16+1. I carried with it yesterday. Other than initial coldness of the metal against my skin, it wore well.
I also bought an 18-lb progressive recoil spring for my .45ACP Commander 1911, from BH Spring Solutions. I compared the old spring with the new and the old one is compressed a bit and also feels a bit lighter than 18-lb). Inside the 1911, the new spring offers noticeable resistance. I can’t wait to take the 1911 to the range. Sadly, I can’t right now, as I’ve some medical issues that currently block me from leaving the house (not Covid).
I’ll capture range footage of the 1911 once I’m healthy!
I returned that brake but wanted to try again with another brake, thinking there was something wrong with first brake.
I bought a used one a few weeks later (slimmer version but has the same threading). That one would not screw down fully flush, either. I decided to keep the brake but was going to ask for an RMA of the pistol, thinking there was something amiss with the threads or muzzle.
Last night, I did some research and found a few folks having the same issue but with other rifles and pistols (some non-AKs). One guy said he took a copper brush to the threads of the muzzle and the threads of the brake, and had success in fully screwing down the brake. I tried it and it worked! There was a lot of crud on the threads of the muzzle and brake (the brake was used and not clean).
I’ll be taking the AK-P to the range this week to test the new brake.
Right now, I think I’m leaning toward the WBP MiniJack, as a primary choice since it’s a beautiful gun. I’d like another milled AK. It’s also currently in stock.
Most of the other guns I listed (what I supplied above is a narrowed-down list of quite a few 1911s) are not currently in stock due to Covid times.
Second choice, for now, is going to be the SA 1911 Vickers Tactical. This 1911 is exceptional and is more than the WBP MiniJack.
The thing that keeps bugging me is that I already have 1911s (lower end non-US makes), so I don’t really need one, but a really nice high end 1911 would be something different.
Another thing that keeps bugging me is that I already have several AKs, even a milled AK and even several AK pistols. I don’t really need another AK, even a beautiful one such as the MiniJack…
Wow, I appears that I just made a very strong case for the Vickers Tactical 1911 as my primary choice. (WATCH ME CHANGE MY MIND AT THE LAST MINUTE).
I can always get the MiniJack Milled next year.
I should find out when the bonus is coming sometime late February or early March. If it’s a lot, I might be able to justify buying two (or getting a lift and wheels/tires for the Jeep).
Well, I bought the Akaso Brave 7 LE. While Akaso offers the Brave 8, I wanted to use Amazon to purchase it (in case the camera was crap) – they don’t offer the Brave 8 on Amazon.
The pros:
The camera costs $118 USD.
The camera comes with many different mounts using the same form factor as GoPro (so you can mix/match parts with your GoPro mounts).
The camera is wifi-capable.
The Brave 7 LE has a front and rear screen
The camera is capable of 4K resolution.
It is water resistant – no waterproof case is needed for quick splashes.
The cons:
Audio quality is bad, even outside of it’s waterproof case. It only has one mic, which is probably why audio quality is so bad.
Bad quality as far as low lighting is concerned, granted, action cameras in general don’t do so well in low light environments.
When using the smartphone app to connect to the camera, it is required that you disable you phone’s mobile data service.
Firmware support is weird. There’s nowhere you can download firmware (for updates) on their webpage.
The camera has a ton of capabilities and those configuration options can be changed quickly from the phone app or from the camera itself.
The camera display’s UI is quick and simple.
Initially, I had issues with image quality when using it as a range camera, but found that I should use higher FPS settings (I was recording at 1080P). I almost returned the camera when I compared footage with my GoPro Hero 4, which was outperforming the Akaso. I found that the Hero 4 was set to capture at 1080P/60FPS and that I was recording on the Akaso at 1080P/30FPS. When testing the Akaso at 1080P/60FPS, the video footage was much more clearer than before.
The only thing I truly do not like about this camera is it’s crappy audio, but since this is a range camera, I don’t need superb audio…the footage I’ll be collecting will consist mostly of very loud gunshots.
As soon as I’ve 1080P/60FPS footage, I’ll post it up. It should be close to equal what the Hero 4 generates (we’ll see).
UPDATE (11/12/2023):
In my user experience, this camera does NOT record good footage in low light conditions. I can somewhat mitigate this by manipulating the camera’s EV settings. The settings can be adjusted between -2.0 to 0 to 2.0. I’ve found that in low level contitions, I’ve to be below 0, otherwise the footage is quite grainy.
I’ve older range footage that this camera recorded, but I can’t remember the exact EV settings that was used in that footage. Keep in mind that the light conditions at that range (Elite Shooting Sports) wasn’t dark or lacking. The footage appears to be quite yellow and a tad bit grainy, even with good lighting.
I’ll take the Akaso Brave to the range with me when I next visit the range (possibly tomorrow evening). I’ll try both -2.0 and 0 EV setting values (and verbally state, on camera, which values I’ll be using).
Here’s the older footage I have:
UPDATE 2 (11/12/2023):
Well, the battery compartment latch broke completely off tonight. While the battery will not faill completely out of the camera, the battery will not stay stationary within the compartment. The camera has never been dropped, so this isn’t an issue of accidental damage.
This SUCKS! I’ve accessories that can only be used with this particular camera!
Luckily, I bought an extended warranty on the camera. While it didn’t cost all that much, I was approved for a full refund.
I don’t really want a refund but this problem isn’t going to fix itself, and the manufacturer’s warranty has expired.
I guess I need another camera, sooner than later. I’m still using the Hero 4 as my primary camera, but since that camera is so old, the Brave 7 LE was the standby camera.
I took out the Arsenal SAM7UF and PSA AK-P. The former is a milled rifle that I’ve owned 2-3 years but never shot until today. The latter is an AK pistol that I bought 3-4 years ago and have been shooting off and on.
Both are dreams to shoot. I’ve no range footage because I hate recording when shooting long guns (my mounting point doesn’t agree with the rifle shooting position).
I shot the SAM7UF first. I thought it would be hard on my shoulder but it was rather mild, especially considering that the folding stock’s makeup is usually something that folks complain about. It’s supposedly not easy to shoot, but the stock didn’t bother me (I’ve the rails covered with paracord).
I thought the recoil would bother my shoulder with that stock but much of the recoil never made it to my body. The milled rifle is heavy and the heft absorbed much of the recoil.
I shot out to 25 yards. I wasn’t hitting point of aim but I think it’s because the rifle may be zero’d to 100 yards. I need to study the method of zeroing AKs. When I do, I’ll revisit the range with the SAM7 and zero the gun (on the 25 yard range, since I’ll have a difficult time seeing further than that).
The gun has some blast, too. It seems it has more blast than my other long AK (a bastardized AK-63D from Classic Firearms). I shot 30 rounds before I switched to the PSA AK-P.
The PSA AK-P is a flamethrower but I already knew that. I didn’t feel like squinting trying to hit 25 yard targets so I moved the target closer, to half that distance.
I’ve a red dot sight for this firearm but I removed it when I last took it out, as I hated it. I’m decently accurate with the iron sights, so I shot 30 rounds at one of those target papers that have 5 targets on it. all but maybe 4-5 landed on paper (because the targets on the edge of the paper don’t leave much room for error and I was doing a lot of quasi double-tapping). The groupings were pretty tight for the rate of fire I used. I also shot while standing. A picture is below.
12 yards, standing w/ irons…
The gun bucks and throws fire. Additionally, it got HOT! I burned myself once and had to wrap it up in rags before I put it in it’s case so it wouldn’t melt the inside foam. Also, keep in mind that this is a pistol and the brace is HARD on a shoulder with the kick of an AK pistol. I also tend to pull the gun in really tight while gripping the mag. I’ll be bruised tomorrow.
Lastly, I always try to shoot my carry gun when I’m visiting the range, so I shot some defensive ammo from the Canik TP9 Elite SC. This ammo is something new to me, but I bought a batch of it from my range 2 nights ago, since it was on sale at 19.99 for a box of 50. The make and model is Federal 115-gr Hi-Shok JHP. I bought 250 rounds of it, not knowing if it was good or not but liking the sub-$20/box price. I later researched the ammo and found that the ammo is GOOD and that law enforcement uses it. I’d assumed that since the box was white and since the ammo wasn’t being sold in 20-round boxes, it was range ammo. It is not. So, tonight I bought 100 more rounds of it just to shoot with tonight. It shot well, without hiccups, and without feed or extraction issues. I may end up trying to buy it in bulk but my research shows that when looking for it online, the low price is 0.49/round, which is a bit high compared to what I found at my range. My range will carry it until it runs out and won’t let me buy in bulk anymore (the person that sold it to me apparently shouldn’t have let me buy so much without shooting – I bought it after my shooting session).
Right now, I’m right at 482 rounds shot through the TP9 ESC. Expect that number to go quickly as I continue to practice with it.
The AK-P currently has 370 rounds through it. I could shoot it more but for some reason, shooting that gun indoors gets old quickly (it has tremendous blast). I looked at the internals (trunion, bolt, and bolt carrier) and the parts aren’t beat up (this model is a GF3). Most AK snobs hate US-made AK, and think they’re sub-par. If I have any issues, it’ll be something like fire-pin issues, or something stuck in the firing pin channel (primer metal), or maybe a loose firing pin retaining pin (which probably won’t be an issue, as I’ve checked it and it is not loose at all). I will probably buy another firing pin, in case the OEM one breaks.
The SAM7UF only has 30 rounds through it but I’ll try to shoot it more, now that it’s no longer virgin.
