Categories
ammo gun belt handgun holster magazines OWB training

I’m Preparing For My Next Pistol Course

December is approaching and I promised that I would take another pistol training class this year. I might not be able to fit it into 2024, sadly, but if not, I’ll try for Q1 of 2025.

That means I’ve to ensure I’m ready. I’ll need ammo and equipment.

I need 600 rounds of range ammo, with 100 of it being frangible.

I already have a duty belt from Wolf Tactical – I received two of them for Chrismas last year. They’re nice belts, too. They’re dual belts with a nice clasp. It’ll accept molle gear, as well.

I also need mag pouches. They can be easily bought from Amazon and I just need something that’ll allow three mags on the belt (whether it’s one pouch or three). I don’t have the mage pouches yet, but I’m thinking of these.

I’m not even sure which gun to take, but it’ll have to be a 1911 or 2011. Why? Because I went ahead and ordered an OWB holster (a requirement for the course) for a 5″ 2011 (it should fit a 1911 as well). Specifically, I bought the QVO Tactical 5″ “Secondary” OWB holster. They’ve what they call a quick-ship version (it’s already built and ready to ship – customization isn’t allowed for those shipments)…it was $100. The holster doesn’t accept weapon-mounted lights, but that’s OK. The holster mounts to the belt via metal angled belt loops.

The current plan is to take m Tisas DS9 since I already have 1000+ rounds through the gun.

If I haven’t yet taken the class by April 2025, I’ll wait a bit because I’m planning on buying two guns this coming spring and at least one will be a 2011. I’m looking at the new Kimber 2K11 – that’s a $2000 gun, so if I get that, I won’t get another. If I opt for something other than the Kimber 2K11, it’ll probably be a Springfield Armory Prodigy DS 5″ with the optic and three mags package, along with the Fusion/Ermox XP Pro. All of those guns are 2011s and should fit in the aforementioned holster. Then again, if I do decide to take whatever I buy in 2025, I’m going to have to postpone the training course until I get enough rounds through whatever I end up buying….I should probably just use the Tisas Carry DS9.

I also have several other compact- and larger-sized guns that I can use for the course. There are guns that I bought over the years that came with their own holsters, and all but the P320 have 3 mags:

  • Sig Sauer P320 Compact – paddle-style holster
  • Sig Sauer SP2022 – paddle-style holster
  • Canik TP9SA (x2) – Safariland-type holsters with paddles
  • Canik TP9 Elite SC – minimal style holster – covers trigger

Of the four above guns, the SP2022 would probably be the one to choose, but I don’t want to be messing with trying to cope with a DA trigger. At one point in time, DA/SA was all I’d carry, but things have changed and I’m now a SA guy – I don’t want to train to use two trigger types, so the SP2022 will be a backup gun for the training.

Or, I could forego that above list and focus on 1911s/2011s. I just didn’t want to bring a 1911 and have issues during the course – I don’t want to be that one 1911 guy that has constant feed issues. The Tisas has only had one fail to feed in like 1200 rounds, so I’m thinking it won’t have issues (I’ll stick with the ammo it’s been eating without fail – Blazer 124-gr FMJ).

Really, the only thing I need to determine now is what frangible ammo to buy. I’ve 50 rounds of Hevi-shot 9mm frangible that’s in the back of my safe, but I’m not sure if the Tisas will eat it (it should – my RIA Commander ate that ammo without issue).

Categories
1911 9mm Rock Island Armory Rock Ultra Tac Ultra

My Rock Island Armory Rock Ultra MS 9mm is Fixed!

For some reason, I decided to take a look at my RIA Rock Ultra MS today, as it’s been sitting in a drawer the past 2 years since the front sight came off.

A while back, I ordered another (OEM) front sight but had been shying away from installing it myself. The new front sight was bought from Armscor (was maybe $20). The only reasons I’ve held off on installing it is because I’ve never done it in the past and because I’ve been busy with other guns.

I decided to try my hand at installing the sight. I’ve files but they’re cheap – I was hoping I wouldn’t need a file. I had sandpaper on hand. I’d slowly sand off the bottom of the front sight for maybe 10-15 strokes, and then test fitment on the slide. I don’t think I even needed to file the bottom down, because I think the slide has too much cut from the front (gun maker’s error). This is probably why I found so much red thread-locker under the front sight. I also have a hammer/punch kit that came with two heavy nylon rods (specifically provided for fitting parts). I was able to tap the front sight in. I used no thread-locker since I tend to get my guns hot at the range. I don’t want to depend upon thread-locker, but I honestly don’t think I need it, the sight is so snug on the dovetail.

The sight did not come with a fiber optic element but I have some on-hand. I installed a Tru-Glo rod.

This gun is now ready for the range again.

I thought I’d shot a lot through it but, per my records, I’m currently at 590 rounds through the gun. I’ll take it to the range soon so that I can test the sight…it shouldn’t come off — I used a decent amount of effort to get the sight onto the slide.

Last I remember (and per my notes, again), this was one of my favorite guns to shoot before I bought the SAS II Ultralight and S15. I shoot it extremely well, even at distance. The trigger is heavy, though…feels like maybe 5 lb, but I’ll test that again soon and update the post with the results. The gun has a thick bull barrel and is heavy, so it’s going to feel more planted that the Ultralight. I’ve a RIA Tac Ultra MS that is bushing-barreled and the Rock Ultra MS feels more solid/tight.

As I’m out of 9mm ammo, I’ll be visiting Cabelas tomorrow to grab maybe 250 rounds of WWB for the SAS II UL, since I’m close to 2000 rounds out of that gun.

Update – Trigger pulls of Rock Ultra

1 – 4 lb 8 oz
2 – 3 lb 13 oz
3 – 4 lb 2 oz
4 – 4 lb 6 oz
5 – 4 lb 14 oz
Average of 5 for Rock Ultra – 4 lb 5 oz
Average of 5 for Tac Ultra – 2 lb 14 oz

Categories
1911 2011 double-stacked subcompact

Girsan Witness2311® Brat Is Now Released for Purchase

I talked about the EAA Girsan Witness 2311 Brat a few days ago. Well, it is now released for consumption (meaning that it is now actually being sold).

I’ve checked the street pricing and, as of 11/11/2024, it is showing as $540 as a lowest-price (see pricing here). That’s not a bad price for such a gun, but I’m suspecting that it will have QC issues, as the other EAA Girsan Witness 2311 variants have all had issues when being reviewed by independent YouTube channels. I’d be very surprised if the gun actually does well, especially with it being a smaller 1911/2011, as the smaller versions can sometimes be difficult to develop.

We’ll see how well it does, but I’m not holding my breath for a good review.

Categories
2011

The Fusion Firearms Ermox XP Pro 2011 Reviews are Trickling In

I’ve been seeing a few YouTubers posting about the new 2011 from the collaboration between Fusion Firearms and Ermox, called the XP Pro.

Usually, the first thing out of someone’s mouth is, “It’s a Turkish import that Fusion put their name on” or some crap like that. This is a true collaboration. Just as when SDS Imports worked with Tisas to up their specification standards, Fusion Firearms did the same. If it weren’t for SDS Imports showing Tisas how to make the parts in the proper fashion using the proper specs, recent Tisas products would’ve been shitty. Fusion Firearms did the same thing. The CEO of Fusion Firearms used to own Dan Wesson and he later sold DW to CZ. He’s been working with Ermox, providing them with the proper specs for the parts and advising them on how the parts need to be made.

I’ve already seen the table-top video of the XP Pro by Graham Baates. This gun looks to be well-made. Yes, there are machine marks, but that doesn’t outright define a bad 1911/2011. The culmination of parts, fitment, and finish is what makes the gun a well-received product. My first thought was that the gun looks to puch way above it’s level, similar to how $400 Tisas 1911s match a gun twice their price. I think this gun is equivalent to a Prodigy. Many folks think that Apollo 11s are equivalent to Prodigies. They are not. From what I’ve seen, the XP Pro looks to be over-built, which means it’s probably going to make a great 2011.

Some things that stood out to me were the fact that the gun comes with two optics plates – one for RMSc and equivalent footprints and one for 507C and equivalent footprints. The plates have irons built into them.

Another thing is that the gun is all bar stock. There is no MIM at all.

Almost all the parts are interchangeable with other 1911s/2011s. About the only parts that are proprietary (by necessity) are the slide catch, the mag catch, and the beavertail, and those proprietary parts are necessary due to gun being built around Glock mags.

Additionally, the grip module (yes, this is a 2011) is all-metal. The gun is heavy, which means that this gun will probably be a recoil sponge.

There will be a comped version later on.

There will be a 45ACP version later on.

The grip angle is good – it’s not Glock-like.

The controls appear to cater to concealed carry.

TheHumbleMarksman has one, as well…he’s just waiting for time to begin conducting the review.

GBGun has his but he’s leaving the country for 2 weeks, so the range portion of his review will be on-hold until he returns.

I’d talked myself into not settling for another budget 2011, but I might have to buy this one (next spring). I’ve another 4-5 months for the kinks to be worked out and for the major channels to review the gun. If things are favorable by March/April, I’ll be grabbing the XP Pro (and possible another higher-end 2011 too).

We’ll see how things play out.

Categories
Bul Armory SAS II Ultralight Weapon-Mounted Light

I Lost My Weapon-Mounted Light

I recently started using a weapon-mounted light (WML), carrying it on my Bul Armory SAS II Ultralight. I lost it when I took the gun to the range for practice – it fell off while I was shooting. I did not become aware that the light was missing until almost 2 weeks later!

There are some things to remember and prepare for when usually WMLs.

WMLs usually require a holster that keys off the light. If you lose the light, you’ll be unable to properly carry the gun if you only have a holster that requires a WML. I didn’t notice that the light was gone – it still fit into the holster but the fit wasn’t proper. I’ve no idea why I didn’t notice it intially. The only reason I noticed that the light was gone was because I removed the gun from the holster to check the light and it wasn’t on the gun.

If you lose a light, you should be prepared by either having a backup light or a holster that will allow you use without a WML. In my case, I just pivoted back to using the Tenicor Certum 3, but I was irritated that I’d lost a $100 light and irritated that I had to go back to the Certum, as I’d just started using the QVO Tactical holster.

Also, a good thing to do would be to check your lane/booth before leaving, to ensure that you’re not leaving equipment. I always check and I did check that night but didn’t see the light in the booth (it fell forward of the firing line and was lying on the ground), so a good check would be to ensure that your light is still mounted to your gun before you leave the range.

I contacted my range and shared with them that I’d lost the light at the range and provided them the lane I was using, the make and model of the light, and the date/time I was at the range. I also posted about losing the light on Reddit. Someone replied to the Reddit post stating that they saw the light immediately after I’d left the range (it fell forward of the firing line and was lying on the ground). He said he reported it to the range officer and asked the range officer to retrieve it. He told me to contact the range and ask for Andy.

I contacted the range via their web page and they looked at the camera footage and stated that they couldn’t see the light on my gun and didn’t even know if they were looking at the correct lane. I told them what I was wearing and what I was shooting and told them that the light may’ve come off the gun very soon after shooting it and to not rely on the footage. I told them that I’d checked the lane before leaving and that the light almost certainly fell past the firing line. I also told him that another person on Reddit said that he’d seen the light and had reported it to the RSO and that he’d watched the RSO retrieve it. It was actually a bit surprising that I had to tell them that to get them to become more engaged – it was almost as if they weren’t convinced I’d lost the light at their facility.

The next day, I got a call (I was away from the phone, so a voicemail was left). A supervisor said they’ve my light but that the RSO (Andy) had forgotten it in his range pouch and taken it home. Andy is a college student and was working minimal hours, so he wouldn’t be available to work until 3 days later. He told me to come on on Friday after 3 PM and the light would be available for me to pick up.

I went and picked it up yesterday. They said they’d a few lights (this most be a common issue) and asked for the make/model. They gave me what looked like my light but they must’ve had several TLR-7X lights and I think I received the wrong one. Why do I think that? Because, when I got home and was trying to install the light and it wouldn’t fit. With mine, I didn’t have to change the key – the light fit on the gun with the key that was already on the light. When I got this particular light home, it would not fit on the gun at all. The key was the same (the Universal 1 key) but I think the TLR-7s are packaged with different keys and are built for particular gun types/models. Since I had other keys, I tried those and was able to use a 1913 key that fit the gun (I forgot which one I used).

How do you keep your Streamlight TLR-7 from coming off the gun? They come with e-clips. After selecting a key and installing it, you install the e-clip to the retention screw, which keeps the screw from loosening. I’ve heard many guys on Reddit stating that they don’t use the e-clip. That’s a bad decision, as you’re only supposed to hand-tighten the retention screw. The light comes with two e-clips and you’ve to install it once you’ve chosen the correct key to use. I didn’t install the e-clip because I was unaware that it was 100% necessary. The e-clip is on now, though.

I’m not sure if I should’ve just went back to the range and told them that even though they gave me a TLR-7X, they gave me someone else’s. It may’ve taken weeks and I may not have ever gotten the correct light, so I settled for this.

UPDATE:

I’ve pieced together what happened with my light.

When it was returned to me, it wouldn’t fit on my gun. It fit on my gun before I lost it. I had to change out the key before the light would fit on my gun again. This means someone changed it.

As well, I’d never enabled strobing on the light – this is something that you can’t do by accident, as it requires pressing the “on” button consecutively, ten times…that enables strobing. Someone else had to have done that.

Initially, I’d thought that I had the wrong light, which accounted for while the light wouldn’t fit my gun and why strobing was enabled. I found a picture that had captured the light’s serial number. I compared that with the serial number on the light after it was returned to me. The serial numbers match, meaning the light is the one I had before I lost it. This means that whoever had my light while it was lost was actively using it (ie, it didn’t stay lost, but was taken/used after it was found by someone else).

The RSO that retrieved the light may’ve been using it, and that is sad.

By nature, I always am overly trusting. I mean, I learned it this time, and didn’t do anything wrong and didn’t do anything that suggested I was naive. I still feel wronged, though. I grew up less-than-rich, meaning, while I wasn’t poor, I wasn’t far from it. I know the value of money. I make great money now but no matter how much I make, it’s hard-earned. Gun lights aren’t exactly cheap – mine wasn’t top-of-the-line, but it wasn’t cheap either. I’m not a person to just blow off losing a $100 bill and that light was more than $100. I got it back, yes, but not before someone attempted to use and alter it. That’s fucking sad.

I think I’ve to learn to be less trusting.

I talk about all of this in my most recent video: