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1911 45ACP 9mm extractor FTE FTF HTP light strikes Remington

Metro Arms 1911 Fixed, 1911 Trigger Pull Issue

I went to the range for a quick visit today. I brought two 1911s this time:  my RIA midsized 1911 in 9mm and the Metro Arms AC Commander 45.

The first thing I did was fire 50 rounds from the 1911 that was a solid shooter (the 9mm)…it ate all the ammo without issue, but at first I was shooting very low left with it as well.  See the picture’s captioning.

I started at the left corner, then went to the right corner, then stopped because I wasn’t hitting point of aim (the red).  When I did very slow trigger pulls when aiming at the center target, I hit point of aim.  I’m having issues with the 1911 trigger…it wasn’t the Metro Arms that was the issue.  That was at 7 yards.

I then began to focus on my trigger pull. I still had trouble trying to figure out which part of the finger to use, but I found that if I shot slowly, I was dead-on. I went through most of a box of ammo pretty much hitting point of aim. It’s an issue of me not being used to the trigger mechanics of a 1911.

I also had two light strikes, which was weird…I’ve not had such issues before.  They both fired when I reloaded them into the mags.

Ammo was Remington UMC 115-grain FMJ.

I then went to my trouble-maker 1911. I had no issues aiming after my 50-round session with the 9mm 1911, although my hands were sweaty and I ended up using gloves.

This is MUCH better than my last range visit, when I was hitting very low left and not being even close to center target.

I also shot 49 rounds of Geco 230-grain FMJ without ANY feed/extract issues. There was 50 in the box…yeah, I had one issue where the round didn’t extract (this is a first…this gun has an exclusive history of not feeding properly). But one in 50 is NOT bad, especially when I was having feed issues several times (ie, 2-3) with each magazine. I think the extractor needs to be replaced, but the tuning I did on it helped a LOT!

So, I’m glad I sorted these issues out.  I think I’ll put the 1911s away for a while, because they don’t shoot like my other guns and I don’t want my muscle memory getting mucked up.

Oh yeah, I decided to shoot some extra ammo I had sitting around (Remington HTP 147-grain JHP subsonic).  I shot 50 rounds of it through my Grand Power P11.  The P11 did NOT like that ammo at all.  There were lots of failures to return to battery, so much that I was hitting the back of the slide almost as much as I was pulling the trigger.  I thought that HTP wouldn’t be as bad as UMC…I was wrong.  I need to remind myself to not shoot Remington out of the Grand Power.  EVERY time I do, I’m disappointed.

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1911 extractor fail to feed feed ramp range visit recoil spring SP2022

Bersa Thunder 380 Plus Listings; Metro Arm 1911 Woes

I’ve had several people reach out to me asking about where to find good-priced Bersa Thunder 380 Plus models.  Here are some:

All of those are listed on Gun Broker.  There were at least 7-10 of them listed, but most were over-priced.  I only listed those that were under MSRP, but I did list the Combat Plus because many people are asking where to find those models and supply is scarce.

Also, a few weeks ago, I ended up taking my Metro Arms 1911 (the American Classic Commander, specifically) and my Sig SP2022 9mm to the local range.

I also ended up putting 50 rounds of American Eagle 124-grain through my current carry gun, the Grand Power P11, just to test to see if it was still having issues returning to battery (it ate all 50 rounds without issue).  I’m currently at 582 total rounds through that gun.

7 yards out, American Eagle 124-grain, Grand Power P11

The SP2022 ate 60 rounds without issue.  That handgun is fantastic and is extremely easy to shoot accurately.  I’m at 279 rounds through the barrel with NO issue whatsoever.

7 yards, Remington UMC 147-grain flat-nosed FMJ, Sig SP2022 9mm

The Metro Arms has been problematic.  I shot 48 rounds through this gun this session and had many failures to feed.  In fact, when I go through my range log, This gun has a history of failing.  It isn’t the mags that are causing the issue (it happens with all three mags and two of them are new and from Wilson Combat).  I actually searched and found that this is more than likely an extractor issue.  I checked and found it was too loose.  I tightened it up and now need to revisit the range to test to see if that helps.  If it doesn’t, I’m going to buy a new recoil spring and extractor.  That should fix the issue.  Another thing of note is that the feed ramp has some major abrasions from the last range visit when I shot Tula through it…it did NOT like Tula and I’d made a note of it (and the feed ramp) in my range log.  I shouldn’t need to polish the ramp with so little ammo through the gun, especially since the ramp had a mirror finish when I received the gun.  The gun only has 188 rounds through the gun.

7 yards, Winchester White Box 230-gr FMJ, Metro Arms ACC45, one FTE (24 rounds total)

As well, the point of impact is not hitting where I’m aiming (I’m aiming for the red with the front sight covering the X.  One thing I neglected to check was my trigger finger placement and how I was actuating the trigger.

I may visit the range tonight just to test the 1911.

I still haven’t shot my AR-15 yet, either.  I’m saving that for Father’s Day.  🙂

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1911 1911A1 American Classic beveled bushings Commander grips Metro Arms VZ Walkure

Metro Arms American Classic Commander – New Grips

Man, I had issues getting the grip screws out of the bushings.  The bushings kept coming out with the screws.  They’re supposed to stay in place.  I tried various methods of getting them out but I eventually ended up really tightening the screws and then suddenly loosening them, breaking the tight seal in the process.
Also, the new grips (VZ Walkure olive green) were not plug-n-play.  They required some slight grinding on the left side, on top.  That was due to the extended slide lock and extended safety.  You can’t tell that I grinded them.  Note that I also had to the the same to the OEM grips…I had to grind the left top side to accommodate the extended safety, as well.
These grips are not as aggressive as my VZ G10s that are on my Rock Island Armory 1911s, but I do notice a definite improvement in grip.  A range session is in order!  🙂
Here are some pictures.

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1911 22TCM 45ACP fail to extract fail to feed JHP TulAmmo Winchester

Recent Range Visit

Last night I visited Elite Shooting Sports to shoot my .22TCM MS 1911 and Metro Arms ACC .45ACP 1911.

First, I started out with the .22TCM 1911.  I was immediately accurate with it (well, accurate enough considering I’d not shot it since April 2015, I was shooting it pretty well):

From 7 yards

I then moved the target out and focused on the head:

From 10 yards

I then moved to the .45ACP and didn’t fare as well.  The last time I fired this handgun was Feb 2015:

7 yards out

The recoil took me aback.  Now, when I first shot this gun, it felt great in my hands.  For some reason, it didn’t feel great this time around, but this could be because I’d just shot the .22TCM 1911, which has VZ grips.  It could also be because I’m more used to 9mm now (this gun has substantial push/recoil, even with it being a beaver-tailed).  Here’s more:

I stayed 7 yards out, since I was having issues putting lead onto the bulls-eye

I can’t understand what I was doing wrong.  Yes, I’m aware of target analysis and what it means when I’m grouping to the lower left of the target.  I actually took my time with several magazines to ensure I was properly actuating the trigger, but I was still hitting lower left.  Although I was able to touch the bulls-eye, I wasn’t able to do it consistently.  I couldn’t hit the head of the target, either.

I was using TulAmmo and Winchester white box JHP.  The TulAmmo was inconsistent, power-wise, as I noticed that the slide moved slowly many times, so I switched to the Winchester and noticed less of that, but only shot maybe 25 rounds of it.  I still wasn’t hitting where I wanted, but at least the slide was acting normally when the gun went BANG.  Another thing — this gun does NOT like TulAmmo.  The ammo kept hanging on the feed ramp.  I didn’t notice this when I first shot it back in February.

Here are my range notes from February:

Half of the ammo was Remington UMC (green/white box).  47 of it was Perfecta FMJ.  I had 3 x FTEs with the black (original) mag.

This gun is FUN to fire!  The recoil is much less than the P220.  It is also very controllable, aim-wise — I nailed the bulls-eye several times and the majority of my hits were toward the middle when compared to the groupings of the other guns I’ve fired.

Back to this range visit.  The Winchester JHP did fine, but TulAmmo is dirty as hell…the feed ramp was heavily covered in carbon.  I can polish the feed ramp but I won’t.  I just won’t shoot TulAmmo as defensive ammo…that’s the best solution.  It’s the ammo, not the gun, and since this is practice ammo, it’s all good.
 
Very odd failure to extract situation here…I had to drop the mag to clear it (it wouldn’t rack back).  
 
I had several FTEs in Feb that I attributed to a possible mag issue.  I think that was a wrong assessment, since the mag would have nothing to do with any problems after the round has been fired.  I also had several FTEs with this range visit (2-3).  All of it was with the TulAmmo.  None of the Winchester FTE’d.  A friend suggested I was limp-wristing.  I don’t think I’ve ever limp-wristed a big caliber handgun before…I don’t think it’s happening now, either, but I’m not sure how to test for that, but like I said, none of the other ammo failed to extract.  I’m going to attribute this to the the TulAmmo.

 

Lesson learned – don’t shoot TulAmmo from this gun!

Notice in my notes that I had no issues controlling the gun, I was able to nail the bulls-eye several times, and most of the rounds were hitting toward the middle.  What has changed?  The ammo?  My perceptions on this gun’s recoil?  I’ll admit, when I first pulled the trigger, the recoil caught me off-guard (I’m used to firing 9mm).  It could’ve ruined the rest of my session with this gun.  Should I keep practicing with it?  I’m not planning to carry any of my .45ACP handguns, so it’s not essential that I train with this particular gun.  It’s a range gun, for now, but it does bug me that I can’t put lead on target with this gun like I can with my other handguns.  I just might change the grips, though (to a set of VZ grips).

And then, when I went back to my .22TCM, I found that I couldn’t hit anywhere near where I was aiming, when I had such a good session with it at the beginning of the range session.  I fired 25 rounds before deciding to quit for the night…I left the range in a bit of a fog.  I’m not sure why my aim was so jacked up after switching up guns…maybe I was slapping the trigger or maybe I the gun wasn’t properly centered in my hands…I don’t know.

 
 
 
 

 

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1911 bull barrel paper clip Rock Island Armory Sootch00 youtube

Got a Rock Island Armory 1911 and Hate Using Paper Clips?

If you hate using a paper clip to break down your bull-barreled Rock Island Armory 1911, then this video might be of assistance to you.

My 9mm Tactical II (non-railed 9mm 1911) is bull-barreled and requires a paper clip when field stripping the gun (per the operator manual).  My 22TCM Ultra does not, and it comes with a 9mm barrel (not a bull barrel, though).

I’ve not tried the method in the video yet, but using the paper clip isn’t a huge deal for me.

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1911 carry CCW concealed Grand Power mag blocks magazines P11 SP2022 VA XD

Received my CCW Permit!

I submitted for my Virginia CCW on 20 February.  I received the permit in the mail on 28 February.  That’s eight (8) days turn-round!  Yes, I knew the VA process is simple in comparison to states such as California, but I’ve never heard of anyone getting their VA permit 8 days after submitting their application – don’t take that as a complaint, though…I’m VERY happy.

So, I’m now legal to carry concealed.  The studying of the laws and reading of others’ experiences has been ongoing and I’ll continue to do both until I become a CA resident.  My immediate tasks are to obtain several good in-waistband holsters.  This is difficult to do because I never considered which firearm I’d be carrying.  For now, I think I’ll carry my 1911s, but I also want to carry my XD subcompact, so I’ve ordered two IWB holsters for both the 1911s and the XD.  I also ordered an extra shell so that I can carry my SP2022.  Why did I pick these guns?  Because the 1911s have slide safeties, the XD has it’s grip safety, and the SP2022 has it’s DA/SA trigger (which I’m probably more acquainted with than the others’ safety mechanisms).  I’ll more than likely focus on carrying whichever is the least difficult to carry.  I’d rather have some type of safety on the guns I’ll be carrying, so that means I won’t be carrying the Glock 19 or the P320C (for now, at least).  You might not agree with the reasoning, but the choice is mine alone to make.

I ordered the Alien Gear Cloak Tuck 2.0 IWB.  I actually ordered two of them, as Alien Gear is having a two holster deal.  I ordered two holsters and an extra shell for $67.  It will be 4-6 weeks before I see those holsters, though.  If I can find something local at a LGS, Gander Mountain, Bass Pro, Dick’s, or even Walmart, I’ll be lucky.

I also want to try to carry my other subcompact, the Grand Power P11, but I can’t find any holsters designed for it.  If I can find a decent generic holster that fits the P11 satisfactorily, I’ve the feeling that that particular gun would be ideal for me to carry.

Obtaining my VA CCW permit makes it more difficult to wrap my head around moving to CA.  We still remind ourselves that we can move to a state neighboring CA if we decided our liberties are being limited too much by CA.

I still have to order magazine blocks for the guns.  I’ll have to hack existing mag blocks for the GP P11, but that shouldn’t be too difficult.  If I find that they’re actually too difficult for me to hack, I’ll order 2-3 10-round mags from Eagle Imports.  My wife’s Ruger has one 10-round mag and one 12-round mag.  The 12-round mag has to go.  Her task is to find someone that’s willing to take it in exchange for their 10-round mag.  If it’s not gone by the time we’re ready to go to CA, I’ll either mail it to my parents or, worse case, throw it away…I’m not going to jail over a mag that my wife doesn’t want to get rid of.

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1911 45ACP 9mm Metro Arms Mod.2 recoil RIA trigger XD

1911 & XD Range Visit

I went to the range yesterday to start the break-in process of the 1911s and the XD Mod.2 I recently acquired. This is just a general sharing of information and experience.

I was supposed to take the P320 and the Glock. I decided to take the 1911s instead, since I’ve no experience with them. The XD was taken because I’d never fired a subcompact.

I started off with the Metro Arms 45ACP 1911 Commander. I shot from 21 feet using Remington UMC and Perfecta FMJ. I was all over the place at first — excited and not knowing finger placement on it’s trigger — but was able to walk my bullets into the bulls-eye within 7 rounds (last round didn’t feed due to an FTE). This gun is super-tight when compared to what I’ve previously shot and compared to my current collection of guns. It doesn’t wiggle or rattle. It has a great trigger. A lot of the recoil didn’t make it to my firing hand…it manages recoil a lot better than my P220. I shot maybe 70 rounds and didn’t want to put this gun down, but I had to shoot all three within the hour’s session.

The RIA Tactical 9mm Commander wasn’t as fun to shoot as the Metro Arms, mainly because the trigger has some irritating slop, which affected my trigger pull. It wags from side to side a good bit, which I do NOT like. I’m going to have to get that fixed. It was extremely noticeable after experiencing the 45’s tight trigger.  Although the trigger was a pain point, part of it was probably because of a shift from one gun to another.  Eventually, I was able to nail the bulls-eye.  Recoil wasn’t an issue, but the gun weighs 40oz and is chambered in 9mm, so I wasn’t expecting recoil to be an issue. I’ve the original mag and bought 3 WC mags (all four are 10-rounders). I noticed that the gun would fail to extract near the end of the mags maybe half the time. I fired 50 rounds before moving to the subcompact.

The XD Mod.2 9mm I have is the first subcompact I’ve ever fired. It’s also the smallest of the two subs that I have. There wasn’t as much recoil as I thought there would be, which is a great reflection on the design of this gun. It comes with two mags, one having a mag sleeve, which felt better since it’s maybe an inch longer and enabled me to get a better grip. The trigger is sloppy, IMO. There’s lots of take-up and I’ve to let out the trigger a large amount before it resets. This wouldn’t be a problem if I hadn’t grown used to my Canik TP9SA’s trigger. There were no malfunctions with this gun. It shot decently (no bulls-eye but all the hits certainly could be considered center mass). It feels like an average gun, but maybe that how any non-1911 gun would seem after shooting 1911s first…I don’t know. I also only shot 30 rounds before I ran out of range time. That’s not a lot of time to get a feel for a gun. I never got comfortable with this gun…that’s not a bad thing…it just means I didn’t have enough time to get properly acquainted with it.

I’m positively in love with the Metro Arms. I love the big bang with the negated recoil. I’m shocked at how well it feels when firing and cycling…very smooth. It feels “rich” when it isn’t. It’s going with me on my next range visit, for sure. It is now the favorite of my guns.

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1911 Armscor Metro Arms Rock Island Armory Sig Sauer

You Get What You Pay For?

Let’s talk about the saying, “You get what you pay for”.

What does it really mean?  Is it something people use to justify the high cost of a product?  Is there any truth to that statement?  Does it pertain to product quality or overall pricing of the product?

I think that statement is HIGHLY subjective.  I’ve heard the saying mentioned about many things:  computers, cars, firearms, vacuum cleaners…  In my opinion the statement can be true, but that totally depends on what you’re looking for in a product.

Let’s focus on that statement as it pertains to cars.  Do I have to buy the halo (top tier model) model of a brand to have a car that is needed as a daily commuter?  No.  As long as the car runs as advertised and is dependable, it can be used as a daily commuter without having to be expensive.  A $12,000 car used as a daily driver will probably be just as dependable as a $40,000 car used in a like fashion.  Do you need a Cadillac-like ride quality just to get to work?  Maybe…maybe not.  It totally depends on driver preference.

Now, lets use the same statement but apply it to laptops.  In my opinion, buying a good computer outright trumps buying a $300 computer to do things that might need a powerful CPU or lots of RAM.  Budget computers cost less because they’ve less capacity to perform complicated tasks.  Most modern games with high-quality visuals (think FPS type games such as Battlefield 4) need top-line CPUs, benefit greatly from having access to more than 8GB of RAM, and gives you and advantage when using SSD hard drives.  No $300 computers have that type of equipment.  If you require a computer with those parts, expect to pay at LEAST $1,000…maybe more if you need a good graphics card and a large hard disk to hold your large software packages.  Do I need a loaded Alienware system to play top tier video games?  No.

If people buy products that give them an edge in competition, yes, the mantra “you get what you pay for” might apply.  They actually NEED to buy the best.  But how does this apply to firearms as they relate to ‘regular’ gun owners?  I’m asking this because I’m seeing people talk about 1911s like it’s required that you spend at least $1,000 for a good example.  Why is that?  If I’m to use a 1911 as a duty gun or as a concealed carry weapon, do I actually NEED a $1,000 1911 to be able to shoot a bullet?  In my opinion, all a gun needs to do is fire bullets dependably…nothing else.  I don’t participate in competition shooting.  I don’t have to have the most expensive gun to keep up with the Jones’ or to feel adequate.  I just need it to work without failures…that’s it.  My view is, why spend $1,000 on a gun when a $500 example of that model will do the task just as well?  Some brands have issues, but I don’t believe any brand is issue-proof.  The brands I’m relating are the Sig 1911s, Metro Arms 1911s, and Rock Island Armory 1911s.  I’d be a fool to think that a RIA 1911 will feel better in my hand than a Sig 1911, but I’m not saying that it would.  All I’m saying is, for shooting, an RIA will be just as dependable as a Sig, even though the tolerances on the Sig might be tighter (most 1911s tend to be tighter than non-1911s in tolerance, so I’m not really concerned in that regard).  Branding/trademarks aside, they’re all 1911s.  Unless I see a particular brand that has many broken slides or guide rods or cracked frames, I’m giving my attention to every brand available, unless I’ve a very specific need that the average gun can’t meet.

I drive my Subaru STI at autocrosses (I specifically bought it because I wanted to autocross).  That’s a niche need, though, but the same might apply to guns.  Some say that STIs ride too harsh for everyday use.  Some say a WRX or other less-focused car would do just as well in autocross.  Some want more of the jack-of-all-trades type of car.  A car that doesn’t have tracking as a focus can be used in autocross, too…just don’t expect to win any trophies without spending large sums of money in aftermarket parts to address track failings.  The driver matters a good bit in autocross, just as a shooter is an important aspect of shooting, but the tool does matter, somewhat.  If I’ve a gun that I’m never comfortable with, I’m probably going to be struggling when it’s time to shoot it well.  That goes for high end guns, too.  My Equinox is a $1,000 gun and it feels great in my hand…I can’t stand the recoil of it, though, to be honest.  Because of that, I’ve been shooting my $400 guns a LOT more.  So the mantra doesn’t apply well in that situation.

I do not want twenty $1,000+ guns.  Not all my guns need to cost that much.  Someone said I could’ve had a Sig 1911 with the money I spent on the two lower-end 1911s I recently bought.  I disagree.  I bought two different brands of 1911, in two different calibers.  If I don’t like one or both, I can sell them and recoup most of my money.  It’s quite possible I’ll like one better than the other, too.  I also might like both better than I would a Sig 1911.  It’s a miracle I even bought a 1911 (much less two of them), since I couldn’t stand them in the past.

I guess the bottom line is, I’d rather my first 1911s be cheaper (in price) models than to get another high end gun that I end up not shooting.  Also, cheap (as in price) does not mean bad.  If you’re going to compare guns, compare like-priced guns, because comparing a $500 1911 to a $1,000-2,000 gun is just plain dumb.  Additionally, Armscor (the maker of RIA firearms) has been building 1911s since before World War II.  I’ve not heard of many people saying that they make crap guns…they make good guns, but it has to be noted that they’re not trying to compete with Sig’s nor any other high end 1911 maker’s product lines…those would be apples/oranges comparisons.  I just need whatever I use to work, nothing else.  IMO, the person that typically uses the term “you get what you pay for” are using it as a cop-out unless they can absolutely substantiate such a claim.  (By benchmarking, or showing many examples of sub-par products.)