I wanted a place to discuss my handguns and firearms in general. Everyone seemingly has lots to say about guns, so I promise you this won't be a rant blog.
I returned that brake but wanted to try again with another brake, thinking there was something wrong with first brake.
I bought a used one a few weeks later (slimmer version but has the same threading). That one would not screw down fully flush, either. I decided to keep the brake but was going to ask for an RMA of the pistol, thinking there was something amiss with the threads or muzzle.
Last night, I did some research and found a few folks having the same issue but with other rifles and pistols (some non-AKs). One guy said he took a copper brush to the threads of the muzzle and the threads of the brake, and had success in fully screwing down the brake. I tried it and it worked! There was a lot of crud on the threads of the muzzle and brake (the brake was used and not clean).
I’ll be taking the AK-P to the range this week to test the new brake.
Hello! Yes, it has been a while since I’ve posted.
What have I been doing? Ordering ammo when I can. Yes, ammo purchases during Covid times can be expensive, but I’ve been buying when I see good buys, even if the purchase is limited in ammo count.
I also occasionally purchase gun parts. Two weeks ago, I ordered the CNC Warrior 4-pc muzzle brake for my AK-P. Specifically, I bought part number 23901, since it will fit on the muzzle threads of the AK-P (although they also sell adapters). I ordered it but didn’t expect it to ship for a long while since these are typically on backorder. I received it earlier this week.
One thing I’ve noticed is that, while the OEM krink booster fits without issue, the 4-pc brake is shallow-throated…it will NOT screw all the way down. It gets maybe 3/4ths down then stops. Pics and a quick video are below.
I took the 4-pc brake apart then screwed it down again, then looked down the inside of the brake (for the safety nazis, the bolt was removed beforehand)…I could see the muzzle end of the barrel hitting the backstop of the threads on the brake. You will not be able to screw down this brake to the point that the retaining pin latches into place…far from it.
I’m not sure how to secure the brake. I’m not going to use red threadlocker, as I don’t want a near-permanently fixed brake (I will probably be trying other brakes or going back/forth between the krink and 4-pc brakes).
UPDATE – 1/1/2021:I sent the below pictures to CNC and asked them what could be the issue. They’ve provided me with an RMA. They want me to send it back. I’ll send it back tomorrow. Someone on the PSA FB group told me that they had a similar issue and that they had to be provided another brake. I should receive a new brake soon.
UPDATE – 1/17/2022:I resolved the issue and have mounted a slightly smaller CNC Warrior 4-pc brake.
This is the OEM krink booster. Notice how it sits flush with the front sight block (FSB).Krink booster is removed. Note the distant between the bottom of the threads and the end of the muzzle…that’s a pretty significant distance.This is the CNC 4-pc brake, screwed down until it bottoms out. I did this with the brake taken apart so that I could see inside the brake to see what is obstructing it’s installation. It can’t screw down enough for the retaining pin to latch into place.This view is looking inside the CNC Warrior brake, from the muzzle end. This shows that the brake is very shallow-throated when used with the PSA AK-P. There is beveling (not sure if that’s the correct word) that is preventing further tightening.This shows how shallow the thread backstop is for the AK-P.
