Categories
1911 Armscor Metro Arms Rock Island Armory Sig Sauer

You Get What You Pay For?

Let’s talk about the saying, “You get what you pay for”.

What does it really mean?  Is it something people use to justify the high cost of a product?  Is there any truth to that statement?  Does it pertain to product quality or overall pricing of the product?

I think that statement is HIGHLY subjective.  I’ve heard the saying mentioned about many things:  computers, cars, firearms, vacuum cleaners…  In my opinion the statement can be true, but that totally depends on what you’re looking for in a product.

Let’s focus on that statement as it pertains to cars.  Do I have to buy the halo (top tier model) model of a brand to have a car that is needed as a daily commuter?  No.  As long as the car runs as advertised and is dependable, it can be used as a daily commuter without having to be expensive.  A $12,000 car used as a daily driver will probably be just as dependable as a $40,000 car used in a like fashion.  Do you need a Cadillac-like ride quality just to get to work?  Maybe…maybe not.  It totally depends on driver preference.

Now, lets use the same statement but apply it to laptops.  In my opinion, buying a good computer outright trumps buying a $300 computer to do things that might need a powerful CPU or lots of RAM.  Budget computers cost less because they’ve less capacity to perform complicated tasks.  Most modern games with high-quality visuals (think FPS type games such as Battlefield 4) need top-line CPUs, benefit greatly from having access to more than 8GB of RAM, and gives you and advantage when using SSD hard drives.  No $300 computers have that type of equipment.  If you require a computer with those parts, expect to pay at LEAST $1,000…maybe more if you need a good graphics card and a large hard disk to hold your large software packages.  Do I need a loaded Alienware system to play top tier video games?  No.

If people buy products that give them an edge in competition, yes, the mantra “you get what you pay for” might apply.  They actually NEED to buy the best.  But how does this apply to firearms as they relate to ‘regular’ gun owners?  I’m asking this because I’m seeing people talk about 1911s like it’s required that you spend at least $1,000 for a good example.  Why is that?  If I’m to use a 1911 as a duty gun or as a concealed carry weapon, do I actually NEED a $1,000 1911 to be able to shoot a bullet?  In my opinion, all a gun needs to do is fire bullets dependably…nothing else.  I don’t participate in competition shooting.  I don’t have to have the most expensive gun to keep up with the Jones’ or to feel adequate.  I just need it to work without failures…that’s it.  My view is, why spend $1,000 on a gun when a $500 example of that model will do the task just as well?  Some brands have issues, but I don’t believe any brand is issue-proof.  The brands I’m relating are the Sig 1911s, Metro Arms 1911s, and Rock Island Armory 1911s.  I’d be a fool to think that a RIA 1911 will feel better in my hand than a Sig 1911, but I’m not saying that it would.  All I’m saying is, for shooting, an RIA will be just as dependable as a Sig, even though the tolerances on the Sig might be tighter (most 1911s tend to be tighter than non-1911s in tolerance, so I’m not really concerned in that regard).  Branding/trademarks aside, they’re all 1911s.  Unless I see a particular brand that has many broken slides or guide rods or cracked frames, I’m giving my attention to every brand available, unless I’ve a very specific need that the average gun can’t meet.

I drive my Subaru STI at autocrosses (I specifically bought it because I wanted to autocross).  That’s a niche need, though, but the same might apply to guns.  Some say that STIs ride too harsh for everyday use.  Some say a WRX or other less-focused car would do just as well in autocross.  Some want more of the jack-of-all-trades type of car.  A car that doesn’t have tracking as a focus can be used in autocross, too…just don’t expect to win any trophies without spending large sums of money in aftermarket parts to address track failings.  The driver matters a good bit in autocross, just as a shooter is an important aspect of shooting, but the tool does matter, somewhat.  If I’ve a gun that I’m never comfortable with, I’m probably going to be struggling when it’s time to shoot it well.  That goes for high end guns, too.  My Equinox is a $1,000 gun and it feels great in my hand…I can’t stand the recoil of it, though, to be honest.  Because of that, I’ve been shooting my $400 guns a LOT more.  So the mantra doesn’t apply well in that situation.

I do not want twenty $1,000+ guns.  Not all my guns need to cost that much.  Someone said I could’ve had a Sig 1911 with the money I spent on the two lower-end 1911s I recently bought.  I disagree.  I bought two different brands of 1911, in two different calibers.  If I don’t like one or both, I can sell them and recoup most of my money.  It’s quite possible I’ll like one better than the other, too.  I also might like both better than I would a Sig 1911.  It’s a miracle I even bought a 1911 (much less two of them), since I couldn’t stand them in the past.

I guess the bottom line is, I’d rather my first 1911s be cheaper (in price) models than to get another high end gun that I end up not shooting.  Also, cheap (as in price) does not mean bad.  If you’re going to compare guns, compare like-priced guns, because comparing a $500 1911 to a $1,000-2,000 gun is just plain dumb.  Additionally, Armscor (the maker of RIA firearms) has been building 1911s since before World War II.  I’ve not heard of many people saying that they make crap guns…they make good guns, but it has to be noted that they’re not trying to compete with Sig’s nor any other high end 1911 maker’s product lines…those would be apples/oranges comparisons.  I just need whatever I use to work, nothing else.  IMO, the person that typically uses the term “you get what you pay for” are using it as a cop-out unless they can absolutely substantiate such a claim.  (By benchmarking, or showing many examples of sub-par products.)

Categories
45ACP 9mm American Classic Commander P320C RIA Rock Island Armory Sig

3 New Guns On The Way!

Just a quick update:

I just ordered a Sig P320C in 9mm, a Metro Arms American Classic 1911 Commander 45ACP, and a RIA 1911A1 MS Tactical II in 9mm.  The Sig and Metro Arms were ordered through Bud’s Gunshop.  The Rock Island Armory 1911 was bought from Gallery of Guns.  They should arrive by the end of the week or early next week at the latest…we’ll see.

I also revised the list again. I’ll stick with the Sig P320C…I don’t need the P320SC since I can modify the P320C to be an SC model (the P320 is modular and can be converted to any other P320 model). That’s going to save some money and is the more logical way to go.

I’m halfway to my goal and might be able to meet my goal and also lessen the list.  I’ve nixed one gun so far and also decided against the Grand Power. I’m also thinking of nixing the FNS Compact, but I might keep it on the list since I’m more than likely not going to be able to get the Canik TP9 v2 (I’ve no idea when it’s supposed to be available).

UPDATE:  The 1911 9mm arrived.  I bought model number 51698 (listed as RIA M1911A1 MS Tactical II 9mm back in 2015 but no longer being carried as a production model). As well, the Metro Arms American Classic Commander in 45ACP arrived, along with the Sig Sauer P320 Compact 9mm.

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iProtec light RM190 tactical

iProtec RM190 Tactical Light

I bought a iProtec RM190 tactical light for my TP9SA two nights ago.  We’ll see how durable it is, because it’s a $40 light.  It’s built pretty well, though.  I thought it was plastic but it’s actually aluminum.  It’s 190 lumens, too.  It has strobe capability, too.

I mounted it on all three guns and it fits them all (all of them have Picatinny rails).

There are mixed reviews of this light, but I’ll be using this until it dies or until I get night sights for the Canik.

The below pics show it mounted to my Equinox.

Categories
Century Arms dremel slide TP9SA warranty wear

Slide Scratches/Gouges – TP9SA

I’d noticed that the underside of my TP9SA’s slide has some unusual metal wear.  I couldn’t find what was causing it.  Well, someone else did:

At 1:18 and 1:22, he shows his slide’s wear…it looks very similar to mine.  He discovered that the magazine was scratching the slide!  My slide scrapes weren’t as bad as his (I’ve only shot 100 rounds through my gun).

I checked my magazines and some of the paint was missing from the very top of both…to double-check, I used a black Sharpie to coat the bare metal both of my magazines’ wear marks.  I also covered the slide’s wear in black Sharpie.  Then I placed the magazines into the gun and racked the slide maybe 10 times each.  I checked the slide and mags again.  The marker ink had rubbed off.

I used a Dremel to grind a bit of metal from where the ink had rubbed off…I removed just a tiny bit of metal with a grindstone.  I covered the ground areas with Sharpie again, then racked the slide with both mags again.  There was no more wear.  Fixed!

The guy in the video actually sent his gun back to Century Arms as a warranty claim.  He also had a trigger spring that was mangled a bit that Century Arms is going to take a look at, too.

I’m glad he posted his issue…I’d have never figured out what was causing it.

UPDATE:  I wanted to keep the readers informed on this issue.  I bought a tan TP9SA not long ago and performed the same grind of the mags that I did with my black TP9SA.  I took the tan TP9SA to the range on 4/3 and it performed flawlessly.  There are no more slide gouges.  It has minor scrapes due to dry racking while the mags were inserted…I covered them in black magic marker to determine if the scrapes would still occur and it hasn’t occurred.

Categories
committee control firearms gun McAuliffe politics senate Virginia

Gov. McAuliffe’s gun control efforts for Virginia die in Senate committee

http://www.washingtonpost.com/local/virginia-politics/virginia-gov-mcauliffes-gun-control-efforts-die-in-senate-committee/2015/01/26/d2cf5ff8-a574-11e4-a06b-9df2002b86a0_story.html

None of the proposed gun control measures made any sense, especially the re-enactment of the “only one gun a month” measure…do criminals follow such regulation?  And, what does one gun purchase per month have to do with gun crime?  All it takes is ONE gun to commit a crime…you don’t have to purchase one to use in a crime, either…you can steal or buy one via the black market.  Illegal gun sellers don’t care about gun regulations, otherwise they wouldn’t be selling guns illegally.

There was even a measure for background checks when purchasing guns at gun show — there is already a requirement for background checks when you purchase a gun, no matter where you purchase from.

The measure of revoking of concealed-handgun permits for parents who are behind on child-support payments…WTH does being behind on child support have to do with concealed carry permits??

There was really no logic applied to any of those proposals.

Categories
9mm Canik Elite Shooting Sports range SP2022 TP9SA visit

Range Report – Canik TP9SA

I took the TP9SA to the range this weekend.  It shot well!  I’m very impressed.

Some notes:

  1. This is the first striker-fired gun I’ve ever shot.
  2. I shot 108 rounds of Remington UMC 115-grain (megabox).
  3. I was shooting from a distance of 10 yards.
  4. There was one stovepipe that occurred when firing the first magazine.
  5. There was one failure to feed that occurred when firing the second magazine.
  6. The trigger is great!  It feels hyper-sensitive.  Reset is loud and tactile enough for me to know when it resets, without issue.
  7. I shot with the larger of the two backstraps…I honestly can’t tell which of the two fit better in my hand, though
  8. A lot of my shots were to the left of the bulls-eye (my left, when aiming).  At first, I thought the rear sight needed to be drifted, so I used Kentucky windage and aimed maybe 1-1.5″ to the right of the bulls-eye and I hit the bulls-eye.  I decided to stick with using the proper sight picture because I know from my prior range visits that I needed to work on trigger pull and finger placement.  Well, the last magazine was very good…I placed a good bit of my rounds in the bulls-eye while using the same sight picture I’d been using the whole session.
  9. Instead of continuing to become familiar with the TP9SA and work on muscle memory with this gun, I switched guns and shot with the SP2022 the last 20 minutes of the session.  This was a bad idea, as the next 20 minutes, my rounds were all over the place.  Next time, I’m only coming with one gun.

I’ve some video footage of the range session, but only of my SP2022. The video is here:

The target is far enough away to where you can’t see a damned thing…sorry about that.  I’ll work it out on the next visit.  I supposed I could lower the FOV setting on the camera, as well as move the target up a bit (in good/bad guy situations with handguns, 10 yards is a bit excessive as far as self defense goes, IMO).

Another thing I did was to test the 9mm Federal HST JHP I have, just to ensure it didn’t jam…I saved it for the last 5 minutes of the session, as I wanted to shoot them while the gun was dirty.  I shot 10 JHPs without issue.  As well, I was only able to shoot them through the SP2022.  I’ve 10 left…I’ll shoot those through the Canik on my next range visit.   The Canik cleaned up pretty well.  There’s quite a bit of barrel wear at the ejection port, though…just the paint coating, though.  It’s not a huge deal, although my SP2022 has more rounds through it and has NO outside barrel wear.  I did lube the Canik VERY well before the range session (with TW25B)…the rails looked good.  There was a tiny bit of wear on the underside of the slide itself, though, and I’ve no idea what caused it, but I’ll be sure to apply some grease to that area before the next visit.

The feed ramp already has what looks to be copper on it, where the bullets contact it while being fed into the ramp.  I’ll leave the ramp alone, though…as long as the gun functions properly, I’m happy.

I’m looking forward to the next range visit with this gun!

Categories
.40 limp-wrist loose hold P250 polymer

Loose Holding AKA ‘Limp-Wristing’

There’s a guy on the forums that I frequent that’s been having very chronic feeding issues with his Sig Sauer P250 .40 cal.  He arranged for Sig to take a look at it and fix the issue, but Sig returned the gun, stating there was nothing wrong with it and that they weren’t able to duplicate the issue.  He complained when it continued to have feed failures, so they suggested he replace the recoil spring.  The gun owner was almost livid because he thought they should’ve done that when they had it (but remember, they couldn’t reproduce the issue).  So, he replaced the recoil spring and shot 200 rounds through the gun with the new spring…the feed issues went away, but now he’s having an issue where the slide stays partially open after ejecting the round (he has to manually cycle the firearm).

Both the feed symptoms that he initially experienced and the resulting issue of the slide partially cycling after brass is ejected are chronic signs of loose holding or what’s called ‘limp wristing’.  Limp wristing can be caused by a loose hold or insufficient strength when holding the firearm while shooting.  Polymer guns are more prone to limp wristing than all-metal guns, since polymer can flex.

The gun owner swore that it wasn’t limp-wristing when he was having the initial feed issue and stated that he’s shot other .40 cal handguns without issue.  He specifically mentioned a .40 Beretta M9, which is an all-steel gun, which would probably not have such issues.  After he swapped in the new recoil spring, he then had the partial cycling issue, which is yet another symptom of limp-wristing.

The fix for this is usually to firm up your hold on the weapon, if possible, change to heavier grain ammo, or to get a different handgun.  The P250 is a convertible gun.  I believe a .357 P250 can be converted to .40 and vice versa…I’m not sure of 9mm.  I think 9mms can’t be converted because there’s not enough room under the slide to accomodate the larger barrels…you’d have to get the slides for the .40/.357 for that to work.  The gun owner might be able to convert it to 9mm but I doubt he’ll be willing to spend more money on a gun he currently can’t shoot without cycling issues.

More information on loose holding can be found here.  The link to the forum thread documenting the issue is here.

Categories
Canik SA TP9 TP9SA Triune Triune Shooting Sports

Bought – Canik TP9SA

A few things:

  • This is the TP9SA.
  • Bought it locally ($369) at a place called Triune Shooting Sports.  Was in and out within half an hour, I think.  Staff was professional and moved with purpose…I did not have to beg them to see the gun.
  • No, it isn’t the FDE I wanted.  I’ll see if I can get the TP9v2 in FDE or OD Green. UPDATE:  Black and FDE are the only colors offered for this particular model of Canik.
  • There are two variants of the TP9 SA:  9mm and .40 caliber.  This is the 9mm version. The .40 cal version hasn’t yet reached the U.S.
  • The trigger is NICE, with a NICE audible and tactile reset!
  • The slide racks back nicely…there’s a very smooth, mechanical feel to it that’s different than my SP2022.
  • It comes with two 18-round mags.  I need 2-3 more.  UPDATE: since I now have two of these Caniks, I have 4 mags.
  • The fit is great.  The finish is good (not great).  This is a duty-type of gun, though…if you want great fit/finish, get a $1000 gun instead.
  • The sights are contrast sights, not night sights.  I’m OK with that, since night sights would jack up the pricing.
  • The grip and stipling is very good…not aggressive but not lacking.
  • The gun wasn’t dirty out of the case like my SP2022 was.  I cleaned it anyways, to get rid of the packing grease and get it lubed up with CLP and TW25B grease.
  • If you don’t like the decocker, don’t use it.  There’s one guy on YouTube that removed his (WTH?).  The main reason for having the decocker is that you can use it to disable the striker before tearing down the gun…no need to pull the trigger.  I imagine this was also a cost-saving measure…they use the same slide mechanics as the TP9 so that they wouldn’t have to develop a whole new slide just for the TP9SA.
  • I’ll visit the range tonight so that I can begin the break-in process.

Update (4/11/2015):  I got this back in Feb but I don’t think I posted about it —

Categories
Beretta Canik FNS-9 Compact Glock G19 Grand Power Mod.2 P11 Mk12 P320C P320SC PX4 Storm TP9 V2 TP9SA XD

My List of Guns To Obtain

Here’s a listing of handguns that I plan to eventually obtain, in the following order, within 12-18 months:

  • Canik TP9SA 9mm (in Desert Tan) – Bought
  • Canik TP9 v2 9mm (in OD Green)
  • Rock Island Armory 1911A1 MS Tactical 2011 .45ACP – Bought but in 9mm (specifically, I bought model number 51698)
  • Ruger SR1911 Commander Lightweight (IF I can find it at around $600)
  • American Classic 1911 Commander 45 ACP 4.25″ – Bought
  • Sig Sauer P320C in 9mm – Bought
  • Sig Sauer P320SC in 9mm
  • Grand Power P11 Mk12 9mm – Bought or Beretta PX4 Storm Compact in 9mm (either one, not both)
  • Glock 19 Gen 4 – Bought
  • Springfield Armory XD Mod.2 SC 9mm – Bought or FNS-9 Compact 9mm (either one, not both)

The Canik TP9 has been calling out to me for awhile now, especially the SA version.  I’ve yet to see the v2 TP9 in online stores, but I’ve been eyeing a Desert Tan TP9SA the last few days, wondering if I should “pull the trigger” and buy it.

Why all the above?  There’s a good possibility that I might be moving to California (no idea when, but I’d like to say within the next 12-18 months).  I’d like to get as many guns on the above list as I can before we move, because once we’re there, I’ll be limited to CA’s notorious approved gun list — the list is a serious joke.  I can bring what I already have into California without issue…I’ve no long guns, only handguns.

** UPDATE:  I’ve decided against the Grand Power, as I do not want to have to limit any more magazines than I have to.  The PX4 Storm Compact comes with 10-round mags, so I won’t have to alter them to meet CA standards.  As well, extra mags for the GP P11 are $54!  Also, we’re moving to CA THIS year…by August.

** UPDATE 2 (2/2/2015):  I just ordered a Sig P320C in 9mm, a Metro Arms American Classic 1911 Commander 45ACP, and a RIA 1911A1 MS Tactical II in 9mm.  They should arrive by the end of the week or early next week at the latest…we’ll see.  I also revised the list again.  I’ll stick with the Sig P320C (Compact, not Carry version)…I don’t need the P320SC since I can modify the P320C to be an SC model (the P320 is modular and can be converted to any other P320 model).  That’s going to save some money and is more logical.

** UPDATE 3 (2/3/2015):  I’ve removed the FNS-9 Compact from the list.  I refuse to research further to try to find a solution to the issue.  Instead of buying the gun and hoping this model will be compatible with other FNH compact models, I’m just going to not buy it…maybe this frees up a space for a different gun?

Categories
failure to chamber P220 range SP2022

Visited the Range Today!

First 15-round Mag Thru the 2022…bulls-eye is a DA shot!

5 Magazines

Cleaning…119 Rounds of Carbon!

All clean!

I finally made some time to visit the range so I could break in the SP2022.  When I bought the gun, I also bought two 50-round boxes of American Eagle 115-grain FMJ.  I filled up all four mags with that ammo so that I could break in the magazine springs.  When I paid for range time today, I also bought two more boxes of AE.

I fired 119 rounds through the Sig Pro today…8 magazines worth.  I had one jam, which is great, but I don’t exactly know WTF happened…it wasn’t a failure to feed, since the first round fed…it wasn’t a failure to extract, since the brass didn’t need to be extracted at the time of the issue.  The trigger wouldn’t release the firing pin.  Also, the slide pretty much locked up…I had to muscle it open.  Once that round popped out, I slingshotted the slide…no more issues.  That was the only round of 119 that gave me an issue with the Sig Pro today.  Also, all four of the mags were new but two of them never had rounds in them (I only filled two of them).

The P220 experienced a very similar issue with a round not wanting to properly chamber or fire, although it wasn’t the first round or mag.  Maybe that was a limp wrist issue.  Or maybe it was one of the new magazines (three of the five are new).

I fired both the 2022 and the P220, alternating between the two.  I’m thinking I should’ve just focused on one gun at a time, because my aim wasn’t where I wanted it to be.  I sighted the bulls-eye but kept hitting left of it and sometimes upper left.  I did hit the bulls-eye a few times but I was very inconsistent.  The target stayed at 7 yards the whole hour.  This “aiming” issue might just be a trigger pull issue, as I dumped 4 mags in one target and there was a giant hole to the upper left where I consistently hit.  I need to work on my trigger pull (on both guns), I think.

Also, most people complain about the placement/size of the slide release on the SP2022.  They also tend to ride the slide release, meaning the last shot doesn’t lock back the slide (because they’ve triggered the release).  That didn’t happen at all during my first range visit with this gun (I made sure my thumb was away from the release lever…it took a conscious effort).

The SP2022 got the majority of my attention today, not only because it’s new (hell, they both are), but because it is easier to fire.  I hate to say this, but I hate the recoil of my P220…or maybe I just need to fire it more.  It has more recoil than what I’m used to and I’m finding it difficult to get used to.  That slide is still stiff as hell, too, although the mags are breaking in very well.  The next range day I have, I’ll spend an hour with the 2022 and an hour with the P220, just to give them dedicated time.

I also bought a new range bag, since I felt weird carrying my two beater bags to the range today (one was a cheap NRA bag dedicated to ammo and supplies (lube, barrel rod, screw driver set…POL-type stuff) and the other (an Army map case)  had my guns in the OEM gun cases.  The range had a store and had a Bulldog XL range bag that I bought, which is much nicer than that map case and the cheap bag that the NRA sent me.

Lastly, it looks like I might be moving to California to move nearer to my wife’s family.  I’ve found that I can keep the guns I bring with me (in fact, it is advisable to load up on any guns before I move, as the CA approved gun list has severe limits).  I’d still need to find a job in CA first, then a house within a specific price range that is a reasonable distance from the job.  This is ridiculously complicated, to the point that my guns definitely take a backseat to job and house search.  Wish me luck!