I wanted a place to discuss my handguns and firearms in general. Everyone seemingly has lots to say about guns, so I promise you this won't be a rant blog.
For some reason, I decided to take a look at my RIA Rock Ultra MS today, as it’s been sitting in a drawer the past 2 years since the front sight came off.
A while back, I ordered another (OEM) front sight but had been shying away from installing it myself. The new front sight was bought from Armscor (was maybe $20). The only reasons I’ve held off on installing it is because I’ve never done it in the past and because I’ve been busy with other guns.
I decided to try my hand at installing the sight. I’ve files but they’re cheap – I was hoping I wouldn’t need a file. I had sandpaper on hand. I’d slowly sand off the bottom of the front sight for maybe 10-15 strokes, and then test fitment on the slide. I don’t think I even needed to file the bottom down, because I think the slide has too much cut from the front (gun maker’s error). This is probably why I found so much red thread-locker under the front sight. I also have a hammer/punch kit that came with two heavy nylon rods (specifically provided for fitting parts). I was able to tap the front sight in. I used no thread-locker since I tend to get my guns hot at the range. I don’t want to depend upon thread-locker, but I honestly don’t think I need it, the sight is so snug on the dovetail.
The sight did not come with a fiber optic element but I have some on-hand. I installed a Tru-Glo rod.
This gun is now ready for the range again.
I thought I’d shot a lot through it but, per my records, I’m currently at 590 rounds through the gun. I’ll take it to the range soon so that I can test the sight…it shouldn’t come off — I used a decent amount of effort to get the sight onto the slide.
Last I remember (and per my notes, again), this was one of my favorite guns to shoot before I bought the SAS II Ultralight and S15. I shoot it extremely well, even at distance. The trigger is heavy, though…feels like maybe 5 lb, but I’ll test that again soon and update the post with the results. The gun has a thick bull barrel and is heavy, so it’s going to feel more planted that the Ultralight. I’ve a RIA Tac Ultra MS that is bushing-barreled and the Rock Ultra MS feels more solid/tight.
As I’m out of 9mm ammo, I’ll be visiting Cabelas tomorrow to grab maybe 250 rounds of WWB for the SAS II UL, since I’m close to 2000 rounds out of that gun.
Update – Trigger pulls of Rock Ultra
1 – 4 lb 8 oz 2 – 3 lb 13 oz 3 – 4 lb 2 oz 4 – 4 lb 6 oz 5 – 4 lb 14 oz Average of 5 for Rock Ultra – 4 lb 5 oz Average of 5 for Tac Ultra – 2 lb 14 oz
I talked about the EAA Girsan Witness 2311 Brat a few days ago. Well, it is now released for consumption (meaning that it is now actually being sold).
I’ve checked the street pricing and, as of 11/11/2024, it is showing as $540 as a lowest-price (see pricing here). That’s not a bad price for such a gun, but I’m suspecting that it will have QC issues, as the other EAA Girsan Witness 2311 variants have all had issues when being reviewed by independent YouTube channels. I’d be very surprised if the gun actually does well, especially with it being a smaller 1911/2011, as the smaller versions can sometimes be difficult to develop.
We’ll see how well it does, but I’m not holding my breath for a good review.
I’ve been seeing a few YouTubers posting about the new 2011 from the collaboration between Fusion Firearms and Ermox, called the XP Pro.
Usually, the first thing out of someone’s mouth is, “It’s a Turkish import that Fusion put their name on” or some crap like that. This is a true collaboration. Just as when SDS Imports worked with Tisas to up their specification standards, Fusion Firearms did the same. If it weren’t for SDS Imports showing Tisas how to make the parts in the proper fashion using the proper specs, recent Tisas products would’ve been shitty. Fusion Firearms did the same thing. The CEO of Fusion Firearms used to own Dan Wesson and he later sold DW to CZ. He’s been working with Ermox, providing them with the proper specs for the parts and advising them on how the parts need to be made.
I’ve already seen the table-top video of the XP Pro by Graham Baates. This gun looks to be well-made. Yes, there are machine marks, but that doesn’t outright define a bad 1911/2011. The culmination of parts, fitment, and finish is what makes the gun a well-received product. My first thought was that the gun looks to puch way above it’s level, similar to how $400 Tisas 1911s match a gun twice their price. I think this gun is equivalent to a Prodigy. Many folks think that Apollo 11s are equivalent to Prodigies. They are not. From what I’ve seen, the XP Pro looks to be over-built, which means it’s probably going to make a great 2011.
Some things that stood out to me were the fact that the gun comes with two optics plates – one for RMSc and equivalent footprints and one for 507C and equivalent footprints. The plates have irons built into them.
Another thing is that the gun is all bar stock. There is no MIM at all.
Almost all the parts are interchangeable with other 1911s/2011s. About the only parts that are proprietary (by necessity) are the slide catch, the mag catch, and the beavertail, and those proprietary parts are necessary due to gun being built around Glock mags.
Additionally, the grip module (yes, this is a 2011) is all-metal. The gun is heavy, which means that this gun will probably be a recoil sponge.
There will be a comped version later on.
There will be a 45ACP version later on.
The grip angle is good – it’s not Glock-like.
The controls appear to cater to concealed carry.
TheHumbleMarksman has one, as well…he’s just waiting for time to begin conducting the review.
GBGun has his but he’s leaving the country for 2 weeks, so the range portion of his review will be on-hold until he returns.
I’d talked myself into not settling for another budget 2011, but I might have to buy this one (next spring). I’ve another 4-5 months for the kinks to be worked out and for the major channels to review the gun. If things are favorable by March/April, I’ll be grabbing the XP Pro (and possible another higher-end 2011 too).
I recently started using a weapon-mounted light (WML), carrying it on my Bul Armory SAS II Ultralight. I lost it when I took the gun to the range for practice – it fell off while I was shooting. I did not become aware that the light was missing until almost 2 weeks later!
There are some things to remember and prepare for when usually WMLs.
WMLs usually require a holster that keys off the light. If you lose the light, you’ll be unable to properly carry the gun if you only have a holster that requires a WML. I didn’t notice that the light was gone – it still fit into the holster but the fit wasn’t proper. I’ve no idea why I didn’t notice it intially. The only reason I noticed that the light was gone was because I removed the gun from the holster to check the light and it wasn’t on the gun.
If you lose a light, you should be prepared by either having a backup light or a holster that will allow you use without a WML. In my case, I just pivoted back to using the Tenicor Certum 3, but I was irritated that I’d lost a $100 light and irritated that I had to go back to the Certum, as I’d just started using the QVO Tactical holster.
Also, a good thing to do would be to check your lane/booth before leaving, to ensure that you’re not leaving equipment. I always check and I did check that night but didn’t see the light in the booth (it fell forward of the firing line and was lying on the ground), so a good check would be to ensure that your light is still mounted to your gun before you leave the range.
I contacted my range and shared with them that I’d lost the light at the range and provided them the lane I was using, the make and model of the light, and the date/time I was at the range. I also posted about losing the light on Reddit. Someone replied to the Reddit post stating that they saw the light immediately after I’d left the range (it fell forward of the firing line and was lying on the ground). He said he reported it to the range officer and asked the range officer to retrieve it. He told me to contact the range and ask for Andy.
I contacted the range via their web page and they looked at the camera footage and stated that they couldn’t see the light on my gun and didn’t even know if they were looking at the correct lane. I told them what I was wearing and what I was shooting and told them that the light may’ve come off the gun very soon after shooting it and to not rely on the footage. I told them that I’d checked the lane before leaving and that the light almost certainly fell past the firing line. I also told him that another person on Reddit said that he’d seen the light and had reported it to the RSO and that he’d watched the RSO retrieve it. It was actually a bit surprising that I had to tell them that to get them to become more engaged – it was almost as if they weren’t convinced I’d lost the light at their facility.
The next day, I got a call (I was away from the phone, so a voicemail was left). A supervisor said they’ve my light but that the RSO (Andy) had forgotten it in his range pouch and taken it home. Andy is a college student and was working minimal hours, so he wouldn’t be available to work until 3 days later. He told me to come on on Friday after 3 PM and the light would be available for me to pick up.
I went and picked it up yesterday. They said they’d a few lights (this most be a common issue) and asked for the make/model. They gave me what looked like my light but they must’ve had several TLR-7X lights and I think I received the wrong one. Why do I think that? Because, when I got home and was trying to install the light and it wouldn’t fit. With mine, I didn’t have to change the key – the light fit on the gun with the key that was already on the light. When I got this particular light home, it would not fit on the gun at all. The key was the same (the Universal 1 key) but I think the TLR-7s are packaged with different keys and are built for particular gun types/models. Since I had other keys, I tried those and was able to use a 1913 key that fit the gun (I forgot which one I used).
How do you keep your Streamlight TLR-7 from coming off the gun? They come with e-clips. After selecting a key and installing it, you install the e-clip to the retention screw, which keeps the screw from loosening. I’ve heard many guys on Reddit stating that they don’t use the e-clip. That’s a bad decision, as you’re only supposed to hand-tighten the retention screw. The light comes with two e-clips and you’ve to install it once you’ve chosen the correct key to use. I didn’t install the e-clip because I was unaware that it was 100% necessary. The e-clip is on now, though.
I’m not sure if I should’ve just went back to the range and told them that even though they gave me a TLR-7X, they gave me someone else’s. It may’ve taken weeks and I may not have ever gotten the correct light, so I settled for this.
UPDATE:
I’ve pieced together what happened with my light.
When it was returned to me, it wouldn’t fit on my gun. It fit on my gun before I lost it. I had to change out the key before the light would fit on my gun again. This means someone changed it.
As well, I’d never enabled strobing on the light – this is something that you can’t do by accident, as it requires pressing the “on” button consecutively, ten times…that enables strobing. Someone else had to have done that.
Initially, I’d thought that I had the wrong light, which accounted for while the light wouldn’t fit my gun and why strobing was enabled. I found a picture that had captured the light’s serial number. I compared that with the serial number on the light after it was returned to me. The serial numbers match, meaning the light is the one I had before I lost it. This means that whoever had my light while it was lost was actively using it (ie, it didn’t stay lost, but was taken/used after it was found by someone else).
The RSO that retrieved the light may’ve been using it, and that is sad.
By nature, I always am overly trusting. I mean, I learned it this time, and didn’t do anything wrong and didn’t do anything that suggested I was naive. I still feel wronged, though. I grew up less-than-rich, meaning, while I wasn’t poor, I wasn’t far from it. I know the value of money. I make great money now but no matter how much I make, it’s hard-earned. Gun lights aren’t exactly cheap – mine wasn’t top-of-the-line, but it wasn’t cheap either. I’m not a person to just blow off losing a $100 bill and that light was more than $100. I got it back, yes, but not before someone attempted to use and alter it. That’s fucking sad.
There was a quiet release of the Kimber CDS9, which appears to be a smaller Kimber KDS9C.
This is not a 2011, though. As with the KDS9C, it is a double-stacked handgun that is very similar to a 1911. The biggest differences are that the barrel link is more similar to a CZ handgun, and the trigger is entirely different than a typical 1911, as it is hinged. This gun is more like a Kimber Micro 9 or S&W CSX.
There is no grip safety, either, which the KDS9C also doesn’t have.
The gun is optics-ready and the barrel length is 3.19″. The gun comes with 13- and 15-round mags. There’s also a version that has a threaded barrel, which also has a reverse two-tone color scheme.
The CDS9 has an MSRP of $1075, although I’ve seen street prices of $917.
As well, the KDS9C has no MIM. I believe the CDS9 will also be MIM-less, although I’ve seen nothing supporting that claim. It would be stupid of Kimber to have no MIM in the CDS9 when the KDS9C is MIM-less.
The Humble Marksman has a great review of this handgun. It shoots well and appears to be just as reliable as the KDS9C, of which I’ve never seen a video that shows unreliability. Most folks hang onto older opinions that Kimbers are not dependable. Again, I’ve seen no videos showing bad reliability with either the KDS9C or R7 Mako variants.
I will add this to my list of To-Get guns for 2025 and will watch as others review this gun.
What is this gun bringing that the other 2011 variants aren’t? Well, You don’t see all that many 2011s chambered in 45ACP, especially in Officer size and while having a bull barrel.
That price is definitely attractive and offsets the fact that it’s an EAA/Girsan offering.
When I went to the range last week, I shot a box of Federal Hydra-Shok 124-gr JHP and the gun (the Bul Armory SAS II UL) ate it without issue, so I ordered a box of 50 of P9HS1G1.
Now, I shot a magazine of Hydra-Shok 124-gr and the ammo functioned, but I didn’t want to buy another box from Cabelas, as their prices aren’t the best.
I also bought a 50-round box of Speer Gold Dot 124-gr JHP, as I’ve never shot 9mm of that brand before and it is a proven round (lots of LE usage).
Both boxes were under $35 and is far cheaper than what I can find at Cabelas (they don’t typically sell SD ammo in boxes of 50).
I’ll give the Speer Gold Dots a spin with the SAS II UL and let you all know how well they do.
I had the choice to continue to carry my Alpha Foxtrot S15 after my SAS II Ultralight was returned to me from Bul Armory after they repaired it.
Although the S15 is thinner (which helps in concealment), I actually missed carrying my Ultralight, so I decided to switch back to carrying the Ultralight. I just need to take it to the range tomorrow and re-zero the RDS.
There’s something about the Ultralight that keeps attracting me to it. It’s only a few ounces lighter than the S15 but it feels much lighter than it is. Maybe it’s the trigger (it’s GOOD). I love the looks of the gun…the lightening cuts and barrel fluting, as well as the black color with the silver accents.
Right now, the RDS is mounted onto the Ultralight. I mounted the Streamlight (TLR-7 X) to the Ultralight, too. It fits in the QVOT holster without issue. I did have to tighten the holster’s retaining screw quite a bit, as the S15’s rail is wide. I also reinstalled grip tape to the gun.
I’ll look for some SD ammo tomorrow at Cabelas or Trojan Tactical. I may settle for Federal or Hornady. I need to buy several boxes of the good stuff, shoot one box to test the ammo, and then use the other box for carry.
I saw that Bul Armory is now offering the original grip module for purchase. That module has far better grip texturing. It’s $149 on their website. I may order it, but I may add it to my Christmas list so that my wife or kids can buy it for me – if I opt to add it to my Christmas list, I’ll have to wait until after Christmas before I can install it.
I need range ammo as well…I’m almost out and I’ve been buying 500 round blocks of Winchester White Box from Cabelas. When shipping is factored into online prices, the prices are roughly equivalent to what I can buy locally from Cabelas (and I don’t do reman ammo). There are no local LGSs that sell bulk 9mm, so it’s either Cabelas or buying online. I can’t stand the $20-30 shipping of ammo, though. I know ammo is heavy, but damn…
Yesterday, I visited the range for the first time in maybe a month.
Since I’m now carrying the AF1911-S15, I wanted to shoot a good bit from it. As well, I wanted to shoot the my RIA 22TCM 1911, as it has minimal recoil and wanted to check to see how fast I could shoot it.
I also tried to use the SIG Connect OHD phone app to get some practice shooting in, but the app appears to require wifi or cellular band connectivity when being used – it would not let me use the app without logging in, and I couldn’t log in while on the range because they’ve no wifi/cell connectivity when in the shooting booth. Because of this, I decided to cancel my subscription. Last range visit, I tried to use the app but couldn’t because I couldn’t properly aim the phone’s camera using the desk tripod I had, so I bought a new tripod that had lots of adjustability. Now there’s this problem with wireless connectivity with the app. The app appears to be too high maintenance for me.
I shot 120 rounds of WWB 115 gr FMJ from the S15. There were two fails to feed, but I know this was almost certainly due to the ammo being not-so-good, as I could feel the slide sometimes moving slower than normal after a round detonated. As well, I neglected to oil the gun (which is a huge no-no, since I’ve been carrying the gun a bit now and the lube has probably dried or moved). As well, there were a few times where the slide wasn’t locking back on the last round, but again, this is probably due to the cheap WWB ammo.
With the S15, I was attempting to shoot quickly from low ready and was fairly successful at hitting where I was aiming at 7 yards – I was actually stacking many of the rounds on top of one another. I think the light on the gun (this is a first time of me shooting a gun with a WML) makes the gun shoot flatter (not that it wasn’t shooting somewhat flat before then).
I also shot 50 rounds of 22TCM9R from the 22TCM 1911. There was at least one instance of the primer blowing out, but I didn’t notice, as the brass ejected without issue. Even so, the slide didn’t lock back and the hammer didn’t cock, but there was a round in the chamber — odd.
I shot both guns somewhat fast. I shot between 5 and 10 yards and attempted to group my shots (was shooting groups of 5). I was also attempting to quickly use the iron sights, as well as conduct quick follow-on shots.
I may have to adjust the rear sight on the 22TCM 1911, as I’ve never zero’d it at 10 yards and at 10 yards, I’m always pulling shots left.
It also may be time for me to start thinking about getting the slide of the S15 cut for an optic (will be using the Holosun optic footprint).
I’m now at 1187 rounds through the S15 and 1097 rounds through the RIA Commander with the 22TCM barrel.
I think I’m going to start shooting the RIA Commander using the 9mm barrel from now on, just to get some rounds through that barrel. I do love 22TCM9R, though.
I’m late in reporting but my SAS II Ultralight is back from Bul Armory.
It was delivered yesterday, on a Sunday – was unexpected, as the shipping info stated it would be delivered on Monday, 9/30.
I tested the gun. It is no longer dropping the hammer without actuating the grip safety.
I’m not sure if I’m going to carry it again or wait, but I did check to see how well the gun fits the Streamlight TLR-7 X – it fits extremely well, without having to change keys (it’s still using the same key it came with out of the box).
I tried fitting the TLR-7 X on my AF1911-S15 – it fits but not fully back to the trigger guard. I’d probably need to change the key to get it further back and I’m not sure if that will adversely change the fitment with the Ultralight, so I’m going to leave the light alone and not change the key.
As well, the new holster was delivered today. As I reported earlier, I bought a 2011 holster from QVO Tactical. I tested fitment today. With the Ultralight and TLR-7 X, it fits perfectly. I did drop the holster down to it’s lowest hole settings (it’s using Double Tacware 5-hole clips) so that it sits low in my waistband.
I also test fitted the S15 to the QVO Tactical holster and TLR-7 X. The S15 is a bit taller at the muzzle than the Ultralight, so there is a bit of rubbing inside the holster. I’m able to account for most of it by loosening the retention (I’ve to do this with all the holsters I use with the S15 – it’s rail is extra beefy).
I also attached velcro to the holster so that I could use my pre-cut foam wedge from Mastermind Tactics. With the wedge, the holster being Commander-sized, and the fact that he has an aggressive wing, the S15 is very concealable. This is why I’m probably going to keep carrying the S15 for a while. No, it is not RDS capable (yet) but I shoot the gun just as well as a gun with an RDS.
Oh, and yeah, the empty space around the trigger guard is not an issue – ALL holsters that accommodate WML (weapon-mounted lights) have extra space around the trigger. That’s unavoidable.
I think I should’ve looked at custom holsters a long time ago. Tenicor is great, but being able to tune a holster to your specific needs is a powerful thing.
